As a Make-up Artist, I encounter many different eye colours, shapes & sizes, all of which require truly bespoke make-up application to highlight and accentuate the eyes effectively. Often, I apply eye make-up first – not just to stop the ‘smudgy under eye look’ from dropped pigment – but, because eye make-up often defines & gives the overall direction for the look. It all starts with the eyes…
Many of the lovely ladies I meet ask me about lashes – the main question being ‘To false lash, or not to false lash?’ So, I thought I would make a note of exactly what to expect with the application of false lashes. Of course, this is just my practice, and if not using a qualified lash technician, please do read the instructions that accompany your lashes, since all lashes differ. In my kit, I have two types of lash; strip or individual flare, both of which require different application techniques.
A strip lash is a continuous strip of synthetic or natural lashes. Strip lashes are available in many different lengths & thicknesses to create effects ranging from very natural to super dramatic! I stock both Red Cherry and Peaches & Cream lashes; the former are made of 100% human hair, whilst the latter are synthetic. These are applied *after* eye make-up using a temporary glue – I use DUO waterproof dark tone; a hard wearing, long lasting glue which will hold the lashes in place even with a few happy tears! I often measure the lashes against the eye before application, and trim if necessary. Glue is applied along the strip of the lashes, and left to go ‘tacky’ for 30 seconds, before they are applied. Once set, the line is blended into the existing eye make-up using eyeliner. Strip lashes sit on top of your own lashes, and can be comfortably removed at the end of the day by lightly pulling on the outer lashes, and carefully peeling towards the nose. Keeping your lashes looking lovely is key, since strip lashes can be used more than once! You can use eye make-up remover to remove any glue residue, and place back in the mould for next time.
Individual flare lashes are more common amongst brides, since they can be tailored more effectively, and create a very natural effect. I stock a range of lengths from 10mm to 14mm, and use Salon System Lashes & adhesive. The adhesive is ‘semi-permanent’ and ultimately means that, with appropriate aftercare, the lashes can last up to 5 days. I always discuss the required effect with brides & measure the lashes against their own. Flare lashes are applied *before* eye make-up, after mascara, by taking lashes individually using tweezers, and starting at the outside of the eye. The top of the flare is gently placed against your natural lash and bonds quickly. This process is repeated until the inner corner is reached. Blending lengths can be used along the lash line to create a truly natural effect. As mentioned before, they allow for more bespoke application, since half the lash line can be filled, for example. Lashes can be removed gently using either eye make-up remover or baby oil if they are fairly stubborn. Once removed, they are often discarded.The pictures alongside this blog show individual false lashes & the lower picture shows these alongside the same eye with natural lashes and no mascara.
Not everyone wants, or likes false lashes. For those who are not sure, a trial is a perfect time to explore the fit, feel & look, seeing how you find them at the end of the day. False lash converts won’t take anything less, but for those who aren’t convinced, beautiful eye make-up can be enhanced using good old-fashioned mascara too. Benefit’s ‘They’re Real’ and Estee Lauder Double Wear Lengthening and Sumptuous Volume are in my make-up box ready to work their magic.